Pull-over and process of making the same



Feb. 26, 1929.

W. J. DE WITT PULL- OVER AND PROCESS OF MAKING hm sAmi Filed Dec. 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet Feb. 26, 1929. 1,703,614

' W. J. DE WITT PULL-OVER AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Fi led Dec. 9, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet .2

43 Willid77z fflem 5 4 8 a @4 @M W Patented Feb. 26, 1929.

PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM J. DE wrrr, or AUBURN, NEW YORK.

PULL-OVER AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed December 9, 1926. Serial No. 153,558.

- This invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear and relates more particularly to an improved pull-over and to a process of making the same. In the shoe manufacturing trade, competition has become so keen that each maker is impelled to offer his new styles to the purchasing public at the very earliest possible moment so as to forestall possible anticipation by other manufacturers.

The general appearance and style of a shoe is largely determined by thematerial cut,-

and mode of trimming the upper, since the sole contributes but little to the visual impression made by the finished shoe, and taking advantage of this fact, it has become customary with certain manufacturers to submit sample shoes in a partly finished condition to the jobber, wholesaler, or in the case of custom-made shoes, directly to the prospective wearer in order, primarily, to avoid delay and pense incident to finishing the shoe.

As stated, the upper of the shoe embodies most of its distinctive features but before lasting it so little resembles the finished shoe that it is necessary vto pull the upper over a last before submitting it to the purchaser, although the time-consuming and expensive bottoming and finishing operations may be dispensed with. Usually the upper, either lined or unlined, is pulled over a wooden last, preferably of some soft and light wood, and the lower edges of the upper are tacked to the last bottom. The upper thus stretched over the last and secured thereto is now employed in this condition as a sample and is known to the trade as a pull-over.

The last employed in making such pullovers must be turned and finished with the same care as an ordinary last, thus constituting quite an item of expense to the manufacturer when, as is often the case, large quantities of samples must be made; the weight of these wooden lasts. even if of soft wood, is considerable so that the cost of shipping the pull-overs, either by mail, (and especially by air mail which is frequently resorted to in order to save time), or by other agency, is undesirably large; the relatively heavy last within the upper gives a false impression as secondarily .to eliminate the ex to the real weight of the finished shoe, thus to a certain extent detracting from its a parent desirability; the last wholly concea s the interior of the shoe and usually projects in an unsightly manner above the upper; and the lasting tacks which project from the up per make the pull-over unpleasant to handle, while such tacks are readily dislodged by accidental blows or rough handling, thereby permitting the upper to wrinkle or slip from the last.

In accordance with the present invention I provide a pull-over having substantially none of the disadvantages above enumerated. This improved pull-over comprises a hollow, thinwalled last of extremely light weight which is easily and quicky manufactured at a cost substantially below that of an ordinary wooden last; the improved hollow last may be, and preferably is of transparent material so that the interior surface as well as the exterior of the upper is visible; the material of the last is such that the edge of the upper may, if desired, be secured thereto by attaching means of a character more desirable than tacks, for example, by adhesive, staples, or stitches. which secure the upper to the last so firmly that it can not accidentally be detached even though the pull-over be subjected to rough handling;moreover the material of the last is such that it may be trimmed ofi flush with the edge of the upper thus causing the pull-over more closely to simulate a finished shoe than thoughthe last were left projecting above the top of the upper.

In the accompanying drawings I have illustrated certain steps in my improved process together with a completed pull-over and also certain desirable modified constructions, all of which fall within the purview of the present invention.

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a completed pull-over embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view illustrating a last of the type which I prefer to employ in making the improved pull-over;

Fig. 3 is a side elevation showing an upper stretched over the last and with its lower edges attached to the marginal portion of the last;

Fig. 4 is an inverted section to larger scale substantially on the line 44 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a bottom plan view of a last of I sli htly modified construction;

Fig. 6 is a section to larger scale, substantially on the line 66 of Fig. 5, showing the last of the latter figure with an upper stretched thereover and secured thereto;

Figs. 7 and 8 are views similar to Fig. 6 but illustrating other modes of securing the upper to a last, such as shown in Fig. 5; I Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are sections similar to Fig. 4 but illustrating other modes of attaching the upper to the edge of a last of the type shown in Fig. 3; and 4 Fig. 12 is a fragmentary section substantially on the line 1212 of Fig. 5 showing a heel removably attached to the last.

Referring to Figs. 1 to 4, the numeral 1 designates one form of the improved last which I employ in making my pull-over. This last is made of thin, stiff, and preferably resilient material, such for example as celluloid, and may be made if desired in accordance with the process and by means of the apparatus fully disclosed in my Patent No. 1,585,284, dated May 18, 1926. VVhether'or not this last he made by the process disclosed in said patent, it is shaped to conform closelg to the contour of the shoe in which it is to e placed. In order to stiffen this last sufliciently for the intended purpose, I prefer to overlap its rear end portions 3 and 4 and permanently to unite such overlapping portions by means of adhesive or by other fastening means. I also prefer to provide the forepart of the last with a cross bar or brace 5 which permanently fixes the width of this part of the last which is subject to the greatest strain in the pulling over operation. If desired, additional brace bars may be disposed at suitable points longitudinally of the last. Preferably, as shown in Figs. 1 to 4, I turn in the lower marginal portion of the last to form a flange 2 extending around the last from toe to heel.

Having produced such a hollow last, which I contemplate may desirably be made of transparent material, I prepare an upper in accordance with usual processes and pull this upper over the last 1; in Fig. 3 I have indicated the upper at 6, such upper being that of a pump having a stra 7. As shown 111 Fig. 4 I pull the upper tig tly about the last and draw the lower marginal portion of the upper, as indicated at 6, into contact with the outer surface of the flange 2. I may then extend the free edge of the upper inwardly about the edge of the flange and cause its margin 6 to lie against the inner surface of the flange 2. v

Just prior to the pulling over operation I prefer to moisten the inner or outer surface, or both, of the flange 2 with some solvent for celluloid, for example acetone or a mixture of acetone and alcohol, and when the edge of the upper has been laid in contact with the flange I hold the parts in this position until the partially dissolved'celluloid on the surface of the flange has solidified, thus very securely uniting the material of the upper to the flange. If desired, I may also pass a series of fastener elements 11, such for example as staples, through the overlapping flange and upper, such staples or fasteners providing added security against separation of the upper and last. If these staples be driven concomitantly with the pulling over operation, they may be relied upon to hold the parts in position while the adhesive is setting. Under some conditions I subject the upper to the action of heat, either during the pulling over operation or immediately thereafter, to cause the upper to retain its lasted shape.

While I prefer, if a celluloid last he emplo ed, to proceed as above described in attac ling the upper to the last, I contemplate that other adhesives, such for example as glue, rubber cement or the like may be employed, and that if the last be made of other material than celluloid, such other adhesives may be preferable. Moreover, While, as just described, I may employ both adhesive and positiv fastener elements, I may dispense with the adhesive provided the fastener elements are arranged suiflcientl close together.

' When staples or tac s are employed it is possible, in accordance with the present construction, to clench such fastener elements at one side or the other of the last as indicated for example at 11' in Fig. 4. Although metallic fasteners may conveniently be used since pulling over machines of well-known type are designed to drive such fasteners, I also contemplate that the upper may be secured at the last by means of stitches or other non-metallic fastener elements.

After the upper has thus been attached securely to the last, I prefer then to trim off the projecting portion of the last about the top edge 8 of the upper so as to leave the last flush with the edge of the upper as indicated in Fig. 1. If desired, and in order more closely to approximate the appearance of a finished shoe, I may now secure a heel 12 to the rear part of the pull-over, although this is not necessary. The heel may be attached by means of suitable nails or other fasteners passing through the inturned flange of the last at its rear end, but I prefer to employ that mode of attaching the heel which is more specifically illustrated in Figs. 2, 5 and 12, since by this means the heel is readily interchangeable ermitting the salesman to exhibit the Ian l-over with any desired height or shape of heel.

In accordance with this arrangement as shown in Figs. 5 and-12 I provide a brace or i with theinner surfaces of the last untilthe solvent has evaporated.

Preferably the bridge piece as shown in Fig. 12 is disposed above the plane of the lower edge of the last. The bridge piece has a keyhole slot 5" whose larger end'is preferably disposed rearwardly and this slot receives a headed attaching element, for example the screw 5 projecting from the seat surface of the heel 12. In Fig. 12 the edge of the upper is shown as attached to the last in the same way as in Fig. 6.

Obviously a last such as shown in Fig. 2 can be supplied with a heel attaching bridge piece 5" having a keyhole slot 5 substantially as described with respect to the last shown in Fig. 5, although when applied to' the last of Fig. 2 the attaching flanges of the bridge piece are dispensed with.

The pull-over thus completed has all of the desirable characteristics above described since it is very light in weight and easy to handle, does not detract in any way from the artistic appearance of the upper, is securely attached to the upper so that the parts can not readily be separated accidentally, discloses the interior surface of the upper so that the latter may be examined without removing it from the last, and is very much less expensive to make than pull-overs constructed in accordance with usual procedures.

In Fig. 5 I have illustrated a modified form of last, such lastbeing substantially like the last shown in Fig. 2 except that the inturned marginal flange is omitted. In Fig. 6 I have illustrated in section one mode of attaching the edge of an upper to a. last such as shown in Fig. 5, the last being designated by the numeral 14 and the upper by the numeral 15. The marginal portion of the upper is drawn up over the edge 13 of the last 14 and is turned down upon the inner surface of the last as shown at 16. Preliminary to this operation, suitable adhesive material 17 is interposed between the inturned part 16 of the upper and the last, it being understood when I refer to adhesive material that I wish to include solidified celluloid resulting from the application of celluloid solventto the interior of the celluloid last prior to the pulling over operation.

In Fig. 7 I have illustrated another way of securing the upper to a last of the type indicated in Fig. 5, the last being designated 14" and the upper 15". The margin of the upper is turned over at 16 to lie against the inner surface of the last and is attached thereto by means of independent fastener elements 17", for example staples.

A further mode of attaching the upper to a last such as shown in Fig. 5 is shown in Fig. 8 wherein the last 14:" has the upper 15" stretched thereover, but the edge of the last is trimmed olf flush with the edge of the upper. Fastener elements 17" extend. through the marginal portions of the upper for attaching the parts to one another. Obviously in place of the fastener elements 17 I might substitute suitable adhesive between the marginal portions of the last and u per.

In Figs. 9, 10 and 11 I i lustrate modified methods of attaching the upper to a last such as shown in Fig. 2.

In Fig. 9 the last 18 has the marginal inturned flange 19. The upper 20 is stretched over the last and its margin 21 is turned in to lie in contact with the outer surface of the flange 19. Suitable adhesive material 22 connects the flange with the portion 21 of the upper.

In Fig. 10 the last 18" has the inturned flange 19". The upper 20" is turned in at 21 over the flange 19 and is secured thereto by means of fastener elements 22".

In Fig. 11 the last 18" is furnished wlth an inturned flange 19" and the upper 20" is drawn over the last and has its margin 22" lying in contact with the flange 19". In this instance adhesive material 22" secures the portion 21" of the upper to flange 19" of the last, while I also provide fastener elements 23, for \example, staples, securing the upper to the last along a line just above the flange While I herein indicate various specific methods of securing the upper to the last, I wish it to be understood that in its broad aspects the invention is not necessarilylimited to these particular modes of securing the parts together, the general purpose in view being to attach them with sufiicient certainty to prevent accidental separation during handling, although I prefer to employfastener means of a character which do not project to any substantial extent beyond the surface of the upper.

I claim:

1. A pull-over comprising a hollow resilient thin walled last and an upper stretched over said last, said upper having its edge securely attached to the marginal portion of the last..

2. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last of sheet celluloid and an upper stretched over said last, the top of the last being substantially flush with the top edge of the upper, and means securely attaching the lower edge of the upper to the lower-marginal portion of the last.

3. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled celluloid last, an upper stretched over said last, and means uniting the edge of the upper to the last, said uniting means comprising a fastener element of such character as not to project substantially beyond the surface of the upper.

4. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last of sheet celluloid, an upper stretched over said last, and fastener means uniting the lower edge of the upper to the last, said'fastener means comprislng solidified celluloid cement.

5. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin Walled last of transparent material, an upper stretched over said last, and means securely cementing the edge of the upper to the lower marginal portion of the last.

6. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last open at its bottom, an upper stretched over the last, and fasteners uniting the edge of the upper to the last, said fasteners being clenched at the inner surface of the last.

7. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last open at its top, an upper stretched over the last, and staples attaching the edge of the upper to the last, the points of the staples being clenched.

8. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last open at top and bottom, an upper stretched over the last, adhesive cementing the edge of the upper to the last, and a series of fastener devices extending through the material of the upper and last for securely uniting the upper to the last.

9. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last, an upper stretched over the last and having its edge portions turned over against the inner marginal surface of the last, and means uniting said edge portion to the last. i

10. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last of sheet celluloid, an upper stretched over the last, the edge port-ion of the upper being turned in against the inner marginal surface of the last, and means causing such edge portion of the upper to adhere to the last.

11. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last having an inwardly directed marginal flange, an upper stretched over the last with its edge portion engaging said flange, and means uniting the upper to said flange.

12. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last open at its bottom but having an inwardly directed marginal flange, an upper stretched over the last with its edge portion engaging said flange, and staples uniting the upper to the flange, said staples belng clenched at the inner surface of the flange.

13. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last of sheet celluloid, the last having an inwardly directed marginal flange, an upper stretched over the last, the edge of the upper engaging the flange and being attached thereto by means of a solidified celluloid cement, and staples also connecting the upper and last, the staples being clenched.

14. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last open at its bottom, a bridge piece extending transversely across the last at its heel portion, said bridge piece having a keyhole slot therein, an upper stretched over the last with its edge portion secured to the last, and a detachable heel provided with a headed attaching member normally engaged in the keyhole slot in the bridge piece.

15. A pull-over comprising a hollow thin walled last of sheet celluloid open at its bottom, a celluloid bridge piece integrally united at its opposite ends to the side walls. of the last near the heel end of the latter, said bridge piece having a keyhole slot whose larger end is directed rearwardly, an upper stretched over the last with its marginal portions cemented to the last, and a detachable heel having a headed attaching element normally engaged in the keyhole slot in the bridge piece.

16. That process which comprises preparing a hollow thin walled last, stretching an upper over the last, securing the lower edge of the upper to the lower part of the last, and trimming off the top part of the last substantially flush with the top of the upper.

17. That process which comprises preparing a hollow thin walled last of celluloid, stretching an upper over the last, moistening the marginal portion of the last with a celluloid solvent, and holding the upper in contact with such moistened surface until the dissolved celluloid has solidified, thereby sticking the upper to the last.

18. That process which comprises as steps preparing a hollow thin walled last open at its bottom, stretching an upper over the last. inserting fasteners through the marginal portions of the upper and last, and clenching said fasteners tov prevent their accidental withdrawal.

19. That process of making pull-overs which com rises as steps preparing a hollow thin walle last, stretching an upper over the last, turning in the lower edge of the upper against an mner surface of the last, and at izaching such inturned portion directly to the ast.

20. That process which comprises pre aring a hollow thin walled last of cellu oid, stretching an upper over the last, turning the edge of the upper inwardly into engagement with an inner surface of the last, and sticking said inturned portion of the upper directly to the last. i

21. That process of making pull-overs which comprises as steps preparing a hollow last by moulding thin sheet material to the desired shape, the hollow last being open at its bottom end, having an inturned marginal flange, stretching an upper over the last,

drawing the edge of the upper about the flange and into engagement with the inner surface of the flange, sticking the upper to the flange by means of an adhesive cement, 5 and passing a series of fastener elements through the upper and flange.

22. A pull-over comprising a hollow last of thin walled resilient sheet material, a shoe heel of substantially usual shape and appearance', and means for detachably securin the heel to the last with the seat surface 0% the heel substantially in contact with the rear portion of the last bottom.

Signed by me at Auburn, New York, this twenty-third da of November 1926.

. ILLIAM J. tn WITT. 

